Bremen

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We visited Bremen in Summer 2019. We didn't have any particular desire to visit Bremen, but we knew we wanted to go *somewhere* and flights to Bremen were less than $50 each way on RyanAir. We booked tickets mostly on that basis alone. When researching what to do in Bremen, we thought that it looked neat and weren't sad with our choice. In reality, it far exceeded our expectations, and we wished we'd devoted a little more time in our trip to this lovely city.

Getting There (Top)

The catch in getting to Bremen for dirt cheap: we had to fly out of Stockholm Skavsta airport. Don't be fooled by the "Stockholm" in the name: this airport is more than an hour from Stockholm. Transit options to it are limited, though Flygbussarna does operate a bus to and from Skavsta from Stockholm Cityterminalen (just outside T-Centralen). We rolled into Cityterminalen around 8:15 in the morning, where we discovered that there wasn't a bus due to leave for Skavsta until 9:00. We grabbed some food and then headed for our departure gate. Despite the fact that the bus wasn't due to come for over half an hour, an impressive line had formed at the gate. Feeling this was unnecessary, we sat down and enjoyed our breakfast. When we finished and checked the line again, it was substantially longer. So long we could no longer see the end of it. A little panicked by this, we joined the end of the queue. Someone came along to promise that there were four buses coming, so the length of the line wasn't a problem. We were about two-thirds of the way down the line and made it in the middle group on the third of the four buses. I'm not sure if everyone in the line got on a bus (later buses were presumably coming), so beware: queue early if you haven't left plenty of time to get to the airport. The bus ride itself was uneventful, though I wished the promised WiFi had been more reliable.

Skavsta airport was small but functional, located in an incredibly rural wooded area. Of note, I got flagged for a "random" security check, my partner got flagged for a "random" security check, and my bags got flagged for a "random" security check. Possible that the random checks all fell on the woman with half her head shaved and the other half green hair, but also possible that you'll be in for some extra security if you look at all non-mainstream. After clearing security, we were forced to walk through a duty-free perfume store. The cloying stench of perfume was overwhelming - terrible design. The bathrooms were functional but very very dated. Posters in the bathroom in more than a half-dozen languages warned about child sex trafficking and against the forced marriage of children. It made me wonder exactly who normally comes through Skavsta.

The RyanAir flight was... different. Passengers were divided into two lines, one for normal passengers and one for Priority passengers. I was in the Priority line, while my partner was in the normal line, and thus we were separated for quite some time. Other families, even those with young children, were similarly split, which felt ... unnecessary. Despite being "priority" passengers, there were few seats and they'd had us queue long before the plane was ready to receive us. We all stood around waiting for 20 or so minutes to board. Like many smaller airports, we had to walk out to the plane and board up stairs. Fine for me, difficult for some of the more elderly passengers. I'm not sure how anyone in a wheelchair or similar situation would have boarded the plane. The seats were made of plastic, though I'll give them credit that my ample booty fit in the chair just fine. What I found bizarre was the lack of a pocket on the seat back in front of me. Like... how much could those possibly cost? Not having anywhere to put my laptop during takeoff/landing was annoying. The seats did not recline, which I honestly liked. I find it really aggravating when the passenger in front of me tilts their seat back into my space, so this worked for me. Drinks and snacks were offered for a fee, so I cannot speak to the quality of the drinks or snacks. The flight crew was fine, though the head steward did forget where the plane was flying to, thus resulting in an announcement that we would soon be landing at "some place" - not exactly professional or confidence-inspiring.

Arrival (Top)

After de-planing, and having nothing to declare for customs, we found ourselves immediately outside in Bremen. I again feel cheated of having a stamp in my passport, although not having to wait in a customs line was nice. The immediate funnel to outside also meant that we never encountered any form of currency exchange, which was a bummer, because the long currency lines at Skavsta had made us decide to change our Swedish kronor into euros in Bremen (why is Sweden part of the EU but without euros? Good question).

The trams to the city proper were to the right after we exited the airport (there were no signs, but we followed the general mass of people leaving the airport). The area around the airport was actually quite beautiful - a taste of Bremen to come. The ticket machine to get on the tram was simple to operate, but the procedure once on the tram was a bit more arcane, and a kindly German eventually had to explain to me how to use the machines (you fold your ticket in half and feed it into a machine to be validated). The tram ride was short but great - I love above-ground trains/trams/lightrails/whatever-you-want-to-call-them.

We eventually exited at Domsheide, just outside the Schnoor district. We were both immediately in love with the clash of old Bremen and new. This juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern is on display all over Bremen:

McDonalds and old city entwined Modern skybridge connects ancient buildings

A McDonald's next to the venerable Dom, while above a modern glass skybridge connects two old buildings

Food (Top)

We thoroughly enjoyed eating in Bremen. We tried to stick mostly to more traditional foods, figuring we'd get our fill of Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and other tasty foods later in our trip.

Kleiner Olymp

Our first stop was Kleiner Olymp, a traditional restaurant in the Schnoor district. The inside was cozy and interesting, the waiter was friendly without being obtrusive, the food was reasonably priced, and most importantly, it was also delicious.

interior of kleiner olymp
Interior
sausage with fried egg
Bremer knipp: ground sausage, fried potatoes, salad, pickle, and apple sauce. Topped with optional fried egg. Om nom nom!
shrimp salad and potatoes
Shrimp salad with fried potatoes.

Tarte

For dinner our first night, we tried Tarte, a restaurant specializing in flammkuchen. Flammkuchen is a German dish consisting of a thin dough - somewhere between a crepe and a pizza crust - with a creamy topping.

interior of Tarte
Interior
leek and other toppings
Flammkuchen with leek and other toppings
goat cheese pesto and walnuts
Flammkuchen with goat cheese, pesto, and walnuts

Edel Weiss

Our second day, we ate some pastries from an Aldi for breakfast, then touristed around the Dom area before heading to Edel Weiss for lunch. Edel Weiss is a restaurant located in a hotel, very close to the central Bremen train station. It was kitschy and touristy, but the food was generally good. My husband was particularly fond of his pretzel.

perfectly foamed beer
Mug of perfectly foamy beer
smoked pork, potatoes, and cabbage
Smoked pork in a beer sauce, mashed potatoes, and braised red cabbage
pretzel and sides
Pretzel, cheese dip, salad, and bread

Spaghetti Eis

Shortly after we arrived in Bremen, we noticed that the folks here love their ice cream ("eis"). Being ice cream lovers ourselves, we appreciate this facet of Bremen. What we were initially confused by was the "spaghetti" offered at every ice cream joint we saw. It was always called "spaghetti eis", so we assumed it was indeed ice cream, but it looked so much like spaghetti that we weren't sure. Maybe all the ice cream shops had some sort of spaghetti-side? It turns out it is indeed ice cream, specifically ice cream put through a ricer or other extruder to make it look like spaghetti, then topped with a red sauce (generally strawberry) and shaved coconut or white chocolate (to simulate shaved parmesan). Ours included a waffle-cookie. The whole thing was super delicious.

spaghetti eis

Shopping (Top)

We didn't do any serious shopping in Bremen, though we did browse through some of the stores in the Schnoor. There was tons of cool stuff to buy, plenty of which would make excellent gifts or souvenirs. Our bag space is incredily limited, so our shopping was similarly limited. Here are pictures of some of the shops we browsed or walked past, along with an item or two we bought.


So much cute stuff!

Super cute. Not sure if they have a function

Adorable animal hooks

Bremen is big on Christmas, even in July

Sean found the licorice market

Cool fossil necklace I got

Around and About (Top)

And here comes the photo dump, with commentary where I can provide it. Bremen is an incredibly beautiful city, so there was lots to see - and lots to take pictures of.


Sean is as tall as our airbnb's ceiling!

Start of Böttcherstraße, an idyllic street

Böttcherstraße

Böttcherstraße, companion to the former

Böttcherstraße

Alley at the end of Böttcherstraße

Der Schütting

St. Petri Dom zu Bremen, aka Bremen Cathedral

Statue outside the Dom

And another

Dom

Statue outside the Dom

Statue close-up

Another statue outide the Dom

Dom exterior. I really loved this building

Last one of the Dom

One of the many gargoyles around Bremen

Another example

This is a government building (according to Google Maps)

Same building, one of my favorite shots from the trip

Last one of the same building

Kunsthalle Bremen, an art museum (we didn't go inside)

Art installation of the Bremer musicians outside the Kunsthalle

Close-up

Cool artwork on a random wall

3D model of the city near the Dom

Building facade I liked

Another facade I liked

So much beautiful greenery

Including an amazing public garden

Market square near the Dom

Same market square

Another open air market

Might be the rathaus

Modern shopping

One of the beautiful parks

A lovely river winds through the city

Very popular slide

Another square

St. Johann, a Catholic church

St. Johann

Unknown location

Unknown location

Unknown location

This tree is being assisted

I loved this tree in the river

There's even a huge windmill in the middle of town!

The library

There is a Brothers Grimm story about four farm animals who, tired of a life of thankless labor, leave for Bremen to become town musicians. There's a statue of them just outside the rathaus (city hall), and artwork of them all over the city. This was the first we encountered, a whimsical painting on a building

Very colorful rendition in the Schnoor

The real deal outside the rathaus

Sean with the obligatory tourist pose

Me with the obligatory tourist pose

One of my favorite variations, found in a department store

Bremen Central Station

Entry to the Bremen rathaus

Above the entry

Other side of the rathaus

From a distance

Roselius Museum

This lovely doorway was near our airbnb in the Schnoor

Although the Schnoor is generally known for its quaint buildings, we also found this set of colorful apartments in it

Typical Schnoor facade

Restaurant/inn Kaiser Friedrich

Wrought-iron gateway in the Schnoor

The streets in the Schnoor are often so narrow that only one person can comfortably pass at a time

Not all the Schnoor streets are that narrow, though

Another Schnoor street

I loved this tree against the houses

This statue, the Bessel egg, is in remembrance of Friedrich Bessel, an astronomer

Extra colorful from the other side

Fountain near the Dom

We found this statue on the way to Tarte; Sean is convinced it depicts an orgy. I'm less convinced

Same sculptor as the last one. Clearly not an orgy this time

This is a really famous statue near the Dom and market square. I never caught who it depicts, though

Circular statue near the Dom

Fountain depicting Neptune. It grows on you after a while

The parks have statues too

Also in a park

Sean with a rathaus statue

Rathaus statue

Even the walls have statues

Unser Lieben, a church near the Dom

Unser Lieben

Flower shop set up against Unser Lieben

These T-Mobile phone booths were all over Bremen

Most unusual breasts I've ever seen on a mannequin

Claire's is alive and well inside the Bremen train station