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We visited Bremen in Summer 2019. We didn't have any particular desire to visit Bremen, but we knew we wanted to go *somewhere* and flights to Bremen were less than $50 each way on RyanAir. We booked tickets mostly on that basis alone. When researching what to do in Bremen, we thought that it looked neat and weren't sad with our choice. In reality, it far exceeded our expectations, and we wished we'd devoted a little more time in our trip to this lovely city.
The catch in getting to Bremen for dirt cheap: we had to fly out of Stockholm Skavsta airport. Don't be fooled by the "Stockholm" in the name: this airport is more than an hour from Stockholm. Transit options to it are limited, though Flygbussarna does operate a bus to and from Skavsta from Stockholm Cityterminalen (just outside T-Centralen). We rolled into Cityterminalen around 8:15 in the morning, where we discovered that there wasn't a bus due to leave for Skavsta until 9:00. We grabbed some food and then headed for our departure gate. Despite the fact that the bus wasn't due to come for over half an hour, an impressive line had formed at the gate. Feeling this was unnecessary, we sat down and enjoyed our breakfast. When we finished and checked the line again, it was substantially longer. So long we could no longer see the end of it. A little panicked by this, we joined the end of the queue. Someone came along to promise that there were four buses coming, so the length of the line wasn't a problem. We were about two-thirds of the way down the line and made it in the middle group on the third of the four buses. I'm not sure if everyone in the line got on a bus (later buses were presumably coming), so beware: queue early if you haven't left plenty of time to get to the airport. The bus ride itself was uneventful, though I wished the promised WiFi had been more reliable.
Skavsta airport was small but functional, located in an incredibly rural wooded area. Of note, I got flagged for a "random" security check, my partner got flagged for a "random" security check, and my bags got flagged for a "random" security check. Possible that the random checks all fell on the woman with half her head shaved and the other half green hair, but also possible that you'll be in for some extra security if you look at all non-mainstream. After clearing security, we were forced to walk through a duty-free perfume store. The cloying stench of perfume was overwhelming - terrible design. The bathrooms were functional but very very dated. Posters in the bathroom in more than a half-dozen languages warned about child sex trafficking and against the forced marriage of children. It made me wonder exactly who normally comes through Skavsta.
The RyanAir flight was... different. Passengers were divided into two lines, one for normal passengers and one for Priority passengers. I was in the Priority line, while my partner was in the normal line, and thus we were separated for quite some time. Other families, even those with young children, were similarly split, which felt ... unnecessary. Despite being "priority" passengers, there were few seats and they'd had us queue long before the plane was ready to receive us. We all stood around waiting for 20 or so minutes to board. Like many smaller airports, we had to walk out to the plane and board up stairs. Fine for me, difficult for some of the more elderly passengers. I'm not sure how anyone in a wheelchair or similar situation would have boarded the plane. The seats were made of plastic, though I'll give them credit that my ample booty fit in the chair just fine. What I found bizarre was the lack of a pocket on the seat back in front of me. Like... how much could those possibly cost? Not having anywhere to put my laptop during takeoff/landing was annoying. The seats did not recline, which I honestly liked. I find it really aggravating when the passenger in front of me tilts their seat back into my space, so this worked for me. Drinks and snacks were offered for a fee, so I cannot speak to the quality of the drinks or snacks. The flight crew was fine, though the head steward did forget where the plane was flying to, thus resulting in an announcement that we would soon be landing at "some place" - not exactly professional or confidence-inspiring.
After de-planing, and having nothing to declare for customs, we found ourselves immediately outside in Bremen. I again feel cheated of having a stamp in my passport, although not having to wait in a customs line was nice. The immediate funnel to outside also meant that we never encountered any form of currency exchange, which was a bummer, because the long currency lines at Skavsta had made us decide to change our Swedish kronor into euros in Bremen (why is Sweden part of the EU but without euros? Good question).
The trams to the city proper were to the right after we exited the airport (there were no signs, but we followed the general mass of people leaving the airport). The area around the airport was actually quite beautiful - a taste of Bremen to come. The ticket machine to get on the tram was simple to operate, but the procedure once on the tram was a bit more arcane, and a kindly German eventually had to explain to me how to use the machines (you fold your ticket in half and feed it into a machine to be validated). The tram ride was short but great - I love above-ground trains/trams/lightrails/whatever-you-want-to-call-them.
We eventually exited at Domsheide, just outside the Schnoor district. We were both immediately in love with the clash of old Bremen and new. This juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern is on display all over Bremen:
We thoroughly enjoyed eating in Bremen. We tried to stick mostly to more traditional foods, figuring we'd get our fill of Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and other tasty foods later in our trip.
Our first stop was Kleiner Olymp, a traditional restaurant in the Schnoor district. The inside was cozy and interesting, the waiter was friendly without being obtrusive, the food was reasonably priced, and most importantly, it was also delicious.
For dinner our first night, we tried Tarte, a restaurant specializing in flammkuchen. Flammkuchen is a German dish consisting of a thin dough - somewhere between a crepe and a pizza crust - with a creamy topping.
Our second day, we ate some pastries from an Aldi for breakfast, then touristed around the Dom area before heading to Edel Weiss for lunch. Edel Weiss is a restaurant located in a hotel, very close to the central Bremen train station. It was kitschy and touristy, but the food was generally good. My husband was particularly fond of his pretzel.
Shortly after we arrived in Bremen, we noticed that the folks here love their ice cream ("eis"). Being ice cream lovers ourselves, we appreciate this facet of Bremen. What we were initially confused by was the "spaghetti" offered at every ice cream joint we saw. It was always called "spaghetti eis", so we assumed it was indeed ice cream, but it looked so much like spaghetti that we weren't sure. Maybe all the ice cream shops had some sort of spaghetti-side? It turns out it is indeed ice cream, specifically ice cream put through a ricer or other extruder to make it look like spaghetti, then topped with a red sauce (generally strawberry) and shaved coconut or white chocolate (to simulate shaved parmesan). Ours included a waffle-cookie. The whole thing was super delicious.
We didn't do any serious shopping in Bremen, though we did browse through some of the stores in the Schnoor. There was tons of cool stuff to buy, plenty of which would make excellent gifts or souvenirs. Our bag space is incredily limited, so our shopping was similarly limited. Here are pictures of some of the shops we browsed or walked past, along with an item or two we bought.
And here comes the photo dump, with commentary where I can provide it. Bremen is an incredibly beautiful city, so there was lots to see - and lots to take pictures of.